How to dress up a lawyer

Bengaluru-based Bassam Usman is responsible for actor Surya’s lawyer-look in Jai Bhim, the serial that not only entertains but educates too

By Rachna Ramesh

Jai Bhim, a phrase commonly used by Ambedkarites, is now on the lips of the common man. This is because of the recently released, hardhitting courtroom drama, Jai Bhim, that has become very poular with viewers.

And guess what? The black jacket and the crisp white shirt that is the look of the lead actor in the movie and is splased all over its poster, has come out from Bengaluru.

The lawyer look of Suriya sports has been put together by Bengaluru-based menswear designer Bassam Osman. Bassam, who owns a studio on Cunningham Road in the city, in addition to one in Chennai, has worked on the look for the Tamil star. Actually, Bassam has been creating looks for Suriya since his first film, Kaakha Kaakha, which was released in 2003. The collaboration is not new.

Previously, Bassam had designed a courtroom look for the Ajith-starrer Nerkonda Paarvai, the remake of the 2016 Bollywood movie Pink.

For the movie Jai Bhim, the designer and his team were provided with a short brief to come up with an outfit required for the courtroom scene. “I was not told the name of the movie, all I knew was that I was supposed to come up with a courtroom look. The look was not the same as my previous courtroom look”, says Bassam.

Talking about Poornima Ramaswamy, stylist and costume designer, who was responsible for Surya’s outfits, Bassam says: “Even the spectacles that Suriya is wearing are done by her. Credit must be given where it’s due. On a set, there are usually always costume designers present but outsiders like us provide new perspectives to create a look for the hero/heroine. This gives the film’s costume designer a break and time to work on other things.” Much credit must also go to 2D Entertainment, the production company established by Suriya, says he.

Before Jai Bhim, he had also designed fits for Suriya in Soorarai Pottru. “Tamil actors tend to dress like their Bollywood peers. Ajith Kumar, for example, dresses like Amitabh Bachchan and Suriya like Shah Rukh Khan”, says Bassam. The roles these actors pick to play usually feature structured and formal looks. Sandalwood stars lie on the other parallel. They prefer to put on streetwear, and style jeans and hoodies. “This is mostly mass-produced and can be purchased at any commercial store”, says Bassam.

While the designer is used to delivering on short deadliness, he says it was still very hectic as he was given four days. “Even though we made a handful of outfits, we had to make multiple ones.That’s how it’s done for any film. My team had to pull all-nighters to finish the product to perfection”, says he.

Bassam was the one who also designed the shirt for Dhanush when he was awarded the Dadasaheb Phalke Award for the movie Asuran.

Several of Suriya’s looks over the years have been designed by Bassam, but each time he tries to outdo himself.

“We explored the vested, buttoneddown shirt and rolled-up sleeves look when we were approached to design Suriya’s look in Ghajini. We were told he was going to be a business tycoon. It’s the film costume designer who provides us with the design prompts while we get to choose the fabric and material to play around with”, he adds.

Actor Jyothika, Suriya’s wife, also frequently visits Osam’s brother’s studio in Chennai for customised sarees. “It is the personal touch that we add to their fits, be it for films or awards, that has kept our relationship going,” say he.

Gibran Osman, Bassam’s brother, a VJ turned theatre artist has also tagged along in the team effort.